Banaras Weaving
Banaras Weaving
Banaras is one of the rich weaving craft Centres of India, famous for Brocade saris and allover dress material. Exclusive varieties of the saris are Jangla, Tanchoi, Vaskat, Cutwork, Tishu, and Butidar which are made of silk warp and silk weft, on plain/satin ground base, brocaded with extra weft patterns in different layouts introducing Buties, Bells, creepers, Buttas in ground, border and Anchal for getting glamourous appearance
In the ancient time, Banaras was famous for the weaving of cotton saree and dress materials, but slowly switched over to silk weaving, during the Mughal period around 14th century weaving of brocades with intricate designs using gold & Silver threads was the speciality of Banaras
Banaras Silk Jamdani
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Banaras Silk Jamdani
The silk Jamdani, a technical variety of brocade, traditionally woven in Banaras may be considered to be one of the finest products to come out of the Banarasi loom. Here silk fabric is brocaded with cotton and rarely with zari threads. jamdani is woven by transfixing the pattern thread between a varying number of warp threads in proportion to the size of the designed then throwing the shuttle to pass the regular weft. By repeating this process, where in the size and placing of the cut-thread is in accordance with the character of the pattern, the Jamdani weaver produces arrangement of intricate designs. Some of the traditional motifs of Jamdani included Chameli (Jas mine), panna hazar (Thousand emeralds) genda buti (marigold flower)pan buti (leaf form) tircha (diagonally striped) etc. It is silk x silk base fabrics with extra looking and technique of weaving in karhuwa.
Brocade
Brocade
Brocade refers to those textiles wherein patterns are created in weaving by transfixing or thrusting the pattern-thread between the warp. In regular weaving the weft thread passes over and under the warp thread regularly. But when brocade designs in gold, silver silk or cotton threads are to be woven, special threads are transfixed in between by skipping the passage of the regular weft over a certain number of warp threads (depending upon the pattern) and by regularizing the skipping by means of pre-arranged heddles for each type of patterning
Jangla Saree
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Jangla Saree
Jangala saree wildly scrolling and spreading vegetation motif is among the eldest in Banares brocades. This old rose sari is embellished with beautifully contrasted gold-creepers and silver flowers of the Jangala motif. The borders have brocaded running creepers, gold and silver-Zari threads. All over Jal Jangla design to get the stylish work of the sarees and also used meena work for the decoration of the fabrics. The exclusive design saree has time taking skilled work, costly fabrics and are widely accepted during the wedding occasion.
Jam War Tanchoi Sari
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Jam War Tanchoi Sari
Using a technique similar to that of brocade, weavers of Banaras weave saris using colorful extra weft silk yarn for patterning. This variety is known as tanchoi. The field has a densely spread minute diaper of Jamawar style paisley. The end panel has large motifs of multiple paisley forms-one growing out of the other. The border, as well as the cross-borders of the end panel, have miniature paisley creepers. Tanchoi fabric has remarkable fame in the India as well as all over in the world widely acceptable to all kind of the people.
Tissu Saree
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Tissu Saree
The renowned Zari brocade weavers of Banaras have evolved a technique of weaving tissue material which looked like golden cloth. By running Zari in weft a combination of Zari and silk in extra-weft (pattern thread) and silk in warp, the weave of this sari is densely patterned with golden lotuses floating in a glimmering pond. The 'drops of water' are created by cut work technique. Tissue saris are most popular as wedding saris among the affluent. Tissue sari has glazed, shining character due to the use of gold Zari/ Silver Zari in weft on silk warp ground are ornamented with the particular traditional designs such as Jangla Butidar, Shikargah menadar etc.
Cutwork Saree
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Cutwork Saree
This type of saree prepared by cut work technique on plain ground texture after removing of the floated thread which are not designed (Woven) during the weaving process which provides good transparent look. Cut work is the cheaper version of the Jamdani variety. In cut work the ;pattern is made to run from selvage to selvage letting it hang loosely between two motifs and the extra-thread is then cut manually, giving the effect of Jamdani.
Butidar Saree
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Butidar Saree
The butidar saree is a rich kind of the Banaras Saree in high traditional pattern and motif of the design locally popularized such as Angoor Bail, Gojar Bail, Luttar Bail, Khulta bail, Baluchar bail, Mehrab bail, Doller butti, Ashraffi Butti, Latiffa Butti, Reshem Butti, Jhummar Butti, Jhari Butta, Kalma Butti, Patti Butti, Lichhi Butti, Latiffa Butta, Kairy Kalanga, Thakka Anchal, Mehrab Anchal, Baluchar Butta with the use of real gold and silver Jari and Katan silk in the weft.
